This is probably one of
my biggest questions that customers ask when they are shopping for a
tractor. " Hydro or Gear"?????? I've heard some people
tell me that a hydrostatic transmission will overheat if overworked, well,,,
your probably right, if you overwork anything it's bound to overheat, what
causes overheating, build up of friction. SO, which one should I
get?? Well there are alot of different factors to account for on your
decision. Are you going to be pulling heavy often? Are you going to
be doing a lot of loader work??. You know what, either of the
transmissions are going to be able to handle these tasks, our current hydro's
now have coolers on them so an overheat issue isn't really an issue anymore and
most higher end tractors (BRANSONS) have very
large and very impressive hydrostatic pumps. I have yet to see nor have I
heard of a hydrostatic transmission fail on a Branson Tractor. I think
basically were going to have to look at some pro's and cons of both
transmissions. Here are a few to take into account, and then you be the
judge of what model your going to need.
Pros' on the Hydro:
1. VERY EASY TO USE: anyone can drive this tractor including the wife and employees.
2. GREAT FOR LOADER USE: very very nice when moving back and forth
3. BRANSONS NEW HYDROMAX TRANSMISSION: Engine rpm speeds up as you depress the pedals in relation to ground speed.
4. NO CLUTCH TO REPLACE:
5. CAN GO AS FAST OR AS SLOW AS YOU WANT ANYTIME:
1. NOISY: of course your going to deal with the typical hydro-whining of the transmission
2. EXPENSIVE: usually more money when purchasing the tractor new vs the gear
3. REPAIRS: Typically if you have a hydrostatic failure it will cost you more $$ than a gear
4. NO FOOT THROTTLE:
5. LOSS OF POWER TO THE WHEELS:
GEAR DRIVEN TRANSMISSION:
1. FOOT THROTTLE
2. NO HYDRO WHINNING: quieter
3. MORE OVERALL POWER TO THE WHEELS:
1. HAVE TO CLUTCH: not everyone can drive a clutch transmission
2. CLUTCH REPLACEMENT: Eventually will have to replace that clutch Look at my picture on this section.
3. NOT THE RIGHT GEAR: You might not be able to choose the right gear for the right application. Hydro fixes this.
Hope some of these items
make it easier for you to choose which one is right for you. Thanks for
checking out my website..
DPF CLEAN OUT PROCEDURE
Ok. Dpf clean out procedure. It seems just running these tractors at or above 2000 Rpms is not sufficient. This is strictly per experience of my own. Doing loader work or cutting brush or backhoe use does not appear to raise the temp in the dpf high enough for burn out. Per my experience on a 2015 3520cx Brandon tractor with now 200 hours. I was doing some serious loader work with this tractor at 2000rpm or higher consistently and my dpf light would come on and stay on solid no blinking. I would throttle down and light would turn off throttle up again and light would turn on again. This kept going on for a couple hours but didn't really notice a shortage of power. Finally when I was done and the light was still on I decided to take it out on the road and full road gear and run it full throttle up and down hills making it work very very hard. About 10 minutes after doing this I started smelling a horrible smell like burned rubber and plastic it was awful but I just kept running it hard at wide open throttle every once in a while hitting the brakes if there wasn't a hill to labor the engine some. About 5 minutes later the smell went away and the tractor was running better and has more power. This tractor is primarily used around our shop to load and unload pallets off of trucks so it never gets warm enough to burn particulate matter off. I have to believe that even at 2000 or above Rpms and light work is not enough to get up to temp on these tractors. Need to remember that these are little diesel engines and they don't typically run very warm to begin with. So be sure to make that tractor work very hard once in a while and I think the dpf will last much longer.
Hey guys. Just wanted to let you know of a somewhat common occurance with the Branson 20 series tractors. It appears that some of the front axle seals have been failing prematurley. Branson will cover this under warranty providing you are still within your warranty time frame and hours. Branson has come out with a heavy duty seal to replace the existing seal. In my opinion it is a fantastic replacement these seals will not fail as they are that heavy duty..
If you find that the
inside of your wheel/wheels are starting to look dirty you might want to take a
closer inspection look to see if the oil seal is leaking. To inspect this
turn you steering all the way to one direction and take a look at the inside of
the wheel that your inspecting. You will notice lots of dirt and grime on
the wheel, this is a good indication that your wheel seal is leaking. If
you are out of warranty the cost to repair this is about $250 at our
shop. It is also not a difficult repair if you would like to do it
Branson 20 Series Tractor "TIER 4" 2014 and newer models "OIL FILTER CHANGE"
The oil fiters on the 2014 and new Branson Tractors are different than the ones that were on the older 20 series tractors "tier 3 models" Pre-2014. This includes all 20 series tractors, this means that if your tractors last 2 digit numbers on the side of the hood end with 20 this might include your tractor.
The old "tier 3" model had oil filter part # HRA1102000A3
The new Tier 4 Model has oil filter part # EA00001160B
If you had received an oil change bucket with filters for the new 20series tractors when you purchased the tractor you might have the wrong oil filter in that bucket. Be sure you have the right filter, the A3 is smaller than the 60B filter but the A3 will spin on the filter housing but it is too small for this tractor and will not handle enough cooling that is required for this oil system. If this is the case give us a call (701)214-8403 and we will send you the right filter. In return we just ask that you send us the old filter. Be sure to match up size from the old filter to the new filter and make sure they are the exact same size.
Mr. Bitz Tractors
So we are deep into our winter with frigid Temps keeping us all at bay. How do we prepare our diesel engines so they start not all of us can have them in a heated garage or even a non- heated garage they just have to stay outside. Engine heater ! Be sure you have one and if you don't, get one. Also #1 diesel fuel put it in, available at most gas stations it will say #1 on the pump. Once you have established that and it's for casted to be very frigid like below 0 take an old blanket of some sort and drape it over the engine to help keep the heat from the engine heater inside, this makes a huge difference . With doing this your diesel engine should start without much of a problem . Once your engine had started let it warm for 10 minutes at 1500rpms . This is mostly for warming the hydraulics and everything else . Purchase some fuel additive to put into the fuel as well, I like to use power service . It's in a white bottle and available almost anywhere. Hope this helps.
OK, so a few of you
might be aware that there has been a few 20 series branson tractors where the
fan has hit the shroud either due to some flexing or some warping of the fan
shroud and in turn coming in contact with the fan. Branson has come up with
a fix for this and weather or not your tractor is under warranty it is not that
expensive of a fix. If your shroud is toast and badly damaged then I
recommend you get a new shroud, if it's not too bad keep the shroud and just
replace the fan with a smaller diameter but more agressive fan. This fan
will need to be fitted with a spacer between the water pump and fan. If
you are wanting the part # for these items just shoot me and email and I can
get you that.